The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the World

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Adam Carter
Adam Carter

Lena is a civil engineer and writer passionate about sustainable infrastructure and environmental solutions in urban settings.